Sandy Longhorn poetry

Prairie Grove Battlefield (52 Parks : 52 Poems)

Date of Visit: 30 June 2023

Prairie Grove, AR

90º with partly cloudy skies and yet another excessive heat warning

When I set out on my 52 Arkansas State Parks : 52 Poems project, I confess that interacting with the natural landscape consumed most of my imagination. I knew, of course, that museums and battlegrounds made up several parks, but they weren’t forefront in my mind. Driving into Prairie Grove Battlefield State Park, I saw first the Hindman Hall Museum (which also serves as the Visitor Center) and then, the sprawl of the battlefield on the ridge with historic buildings scattered about. After several days of hiking in the Ozark Mountains, the asphalt walking trail provided a great way to end my three days of visits in northwest Arkansas, especially given the heat. While the park serves first and foremost as an historical landmark with educating visitors about the battle that played out on December 7, 1862, given the most attention, I fell a bit in love with all of the old and well-tended trees on the ridge.

As I walked the trail and read placard after placard about the battle between Confederate General T.C. Hindman (Arkansas) and Union Generals James G Blunt (Kansas) and F.J. Herron (Iowa), I became overwhelmed thinking about the conflict that divided us then and how continued and rising conflicts seem to be tearing the country asunder once more. Periodically, I turned to the trees and I kept returning to the question of how old the trees on the trail might be. Could any of them have been around during the battle? Later in the day, attending an interactive lecture on the park’s historic buildings, I learned that there is a volunteer arborist who visits regularly and who believes several of the trees may be “witness trees,” trees that today might date as old as 200 years.

Whenever I write about the flora and fauna around me, I resist the urge to personify or to ask the natural world to help me hide from the reality with which I might struggle (i.e. climate disaster, divisive human conflict, misogyny & all the -isms, &etc.) I want to be a steward of my environment at the local and global levels, and one of my lifelong questions in this mission is this: What do I ask of my environment and what does my environment ask of me? And now you see how quickly these poem drafts morph into huge ideas even as I grapple with the overpowering amount of information I gather at each site.

All of that being said, about three-fourths of the way through the battlefield trail, I encountered this set of twined trees. A black walnut and a hackberry, to me, these were the most fascinating natural encounter I had during my visit, and let me tell you, I wanted so very much to see these as some sign of hope about two very different “sides” of any conflict eventually growing to understand each other.

Between my time on the trail, reading and listening to the exhibits in the museum, and attending the interactive park interpreter session, I came away from the park mulling over the language of war. Here are a few of the headers from exhibits: “Six Mortal Hours,” “The Slaughter Pen,” “Commence the Music” (where “music” refers to the Union artillery, “Our batteries opened on them, and then commenced the music.”), and “Blazing Away Like Fury.” Many of these phrases come from letters written by commanders, soldiers, or local residents who observed the battle from nearby locations. Of course, being born and raised in Iowa, I had to stop and text my family a picture of one sign that read, “With drive and determination the Iowans erupted onto the battlefield once again.”

I thought a lot about my relationship with the Civil War and the North and the South as I walked the ground that contained artifacts, shrapnel & bone, from 160+ years ago. Growing up, my education assured me that I walked on the “right side of history.” In fact, the only documented connection I have to the Civil War is that James Longhorn came from England to the US in around 1860 and joined the Nineteenth Illinois Regiment, eventually being promoted to 1st Lieutenant. Not sure how many greats I am from this ancestor or whether I’m a direct descendant or a niece, I do know he’s there in my genetic memory. When I moved to Arkansas in 1999, I began to gain friends who grew up with strong southern identities, and I would gently kid these friends, “well, we know who won the war don’t we.” Now, 24 years later, as I identify as an Arkansan, I find myself wrestling with what this means in terms of confronting our history here and being “on the wrong side.” The current political climate in Arkansas (and in Iowa for that matter) mean that I face living in a place (places if I still count Iowa as one of my homes) that seems determined to move backward and into more divisive times.

This image of the flat river plain that served as the approach for the Iowans in the Union troops on December 7, 1962 haunts me. It was the Illinois River they forded in their approach of the ridge directly behind me as I photographed the scene. I stood there, on a relatively quiet morning, shaded by lovely, old trees and felt compassion for the people on all sides of the battle, the Confederate & Union soldiers and their support staff, as well as the local people, especially those who were driven from their homes that day, homes that the Union armies would burn to the ground the next day. Aside that atrocity, the Union leadership also commanded that all captured Confederate horses be shot and killed, despite their own troops begging them to “save the horses!” All of this is to say that to claim one is on the “right” or “wrong” side of history is a complex and troubling paradigm, and I expect this will simmer up in the poem as well.

This poem may end up being the most somber of the collection. Time will tell.

Next up: Hobbs State Park-Conservation Area

Posted by Sandy Longhorn

Devil’s Den (52 Parks : 52 Poems)

Date of Visit: 29 June 2023

West Fork, AR

93º (feels like 102º), forecast for hottest day of the year so far, afternoon temps around 100º, bright sun all day

Devil’s Den State Park may be one of the three best known parks in the state (along with Pinnacle Mountain and Petit Jean). It is renowned for its caves and its trails.

Once upon a time as a wee graduate student attending the nearby University of Arkansas Fayetteville, I hiked Devil’s Den Trail and made a brief appearance as a caver, a very brief appearance. Before my recent visit as a more confident hiker, I already knew that most of the caves were now closed in an attempt to stem the spread of white-nose syndrome in the local bat populations. Sadly, I learned that, in fact, all of the caves are now closed to the public. This lead to information that I know will make it into my poem about this visit: two endangered bat species live in the park, Ozark big-eared and Indiana bats, and Ozark big-eared bats only live in northwest Arkansas, northeast Oklahoma, and a bit of southwest Missouri. A remote cave in Devil’s Den hosts their largest surviving colony. I wish I could post a picture of one of these super cute little flyers, but alas. Also, FYI: “The maximum fine for harming endangered bats is $100,000.”

Like several of the parks I already visited, the 1930s Civilian Conservation Corps played a huge role in helping to establish this rugged park. One of my favorite artifacts on display in the Visitor Center was this laminated edition of the 1936 camp newspaper, Voice of Satan. The Corps started work on Devil’s Den in 1933 and three years later, there were enough men earning a paycheck to send home to family to constitute a small town barracked amid the upland forest of the Ozarks. Ninety years after they labored, it remains easy to see the physical remains of their efforts. You can see the strike marks of their axes and chisels in the rocks that form the dam on Lee Creek, creating Lake Devil (the original major attraction of the park for visitors). Given my fascination with this history, I made sure I had time for the CCC Interpretive Trail, one of the least used trails at the park. Along the trail are remnants of rock foundations, a hand-built rock culvert and the ghostly, shadowed walls of a root cellar (I didn’t go in there). Walking the trail gave me a sense of the size of the camp, and in the heat, sweating and yet protected by sunscreen, bug spray, and good hiking gear, I thought of those men who dressed out in uniforms in the heat or the cold and got down to the work of making a beautiful but rugged space more accessible to the general public.

As an amateur (very amateur) hiker, my proudest accomplishment so far in all my travels may be completing Devil’s Den Trail. The trail guide calls it a “moderate” trail and lists the elevation change as 100 feet. What it doesn’t say is that the elevation change doesn’t just happen once. I hiked up; I hiked down; I hiked around and around and up and down. It was fabulous, but super challenging. More than ever, I was grateful I’d had the foresight to buy my Black Diamond Trail Back trekking poles (in my signature dark crimson, of course). While hiking the trail, I gained a new understanding of something I’d read in the Visitor Center. The caves here are unique in the US. Yup, in all the US! “According to geologists, 10,000 to 70,000 years ago Lee Creek removed enough material to cause a corner of the mountainside to break off, slide and crack, creating several interconnected crevices.” They have great names like the 50-foot deep Big-eared Crevice (where those big-eared bats I mentioned above hibernate in the largest numbers), Imp’s Leap (named by men from the CCC), and Dead Horse Crevice (sadly, self-explanatory). All along my hike, I saw small, unnamed crevices and found myself gazing down into the slices of rock, wanting to know what it would feel like to be down at the bottom staring up.

I ended my day at Devil’s Den on a bit of a disappointment. The heat got the better of me when I tried to hike Lee Creek Trail. There’s little tree cover, but there are supposed to be some great fossil viewing opportunities on the creek bed. I will definitely be returning to scope those out, and I also want to hike the short Woody Plant Trail in the spring. While I’ll go back for these experiences, the poem right now is shaping up to be bat-centric, alongside the extreme beauty of the rocky, sandstone outcroppings and shady upland forest. Central questions swirl around the influence of human hands on the natural world.

Next up, Prairie Grove Battlefield.

Posted by Sandy Longhorn

Pinnacle Mountain (52 Parks: 52 Poems)

Date of Visit: 12 June 2023

Little Rock, AR

73º all day, cloudy, breezy, the threat of rain as shown on radar ended my day early…and then it didn’t rain

Park 3 of 52 AR State Parks: 52 Poems was Pinnacle Mountain. Having lived in central Arkansas for 18 years, I’ve been hearing about this park from friends for quite a while. However, I had never been to the park before this visit.

This project is happening as I begin a new chapter in my life, post-divorce. Along the way, I’ve had cause to re-examine many of the stories I’ve been telling myself about myself for years. One of those stories seems to have been that I am not “outdoorsy.” It turns out, I love to hike and meander and be out in nature; I just don’t want to be a “rustic” camper. It has been a revelation to go out alone into the woods and simply be. (*Don’t worry, Mom. I follow all the guidelines and I always let folx know where I’ll be and for how long.)

Pinnacle Mountain overlook of the Maumelle River. The skeleton of a dead loblolly pine in the foreground.

As for Pinnacle Mountain, I doubt I’ll ever summit it on the eastern and most difficult trail, but I do plan to go back and hike the West Summit Trail in the future. For this visit, I chose to hike the Rocky Valley Trail in the hopes of also tackling the East Quarry Trail, based on the advice of a friend well-versed in Pinnacle’s offerings. I did cover all of the RVT, but when I was halfway up the EQT, I saw ominous clouds forming and checked radar. A blob of orange and green to the west forced me to cut my trip short. And then, it didn’t rain!!

Of course, I started the day in the Visitor Center and lost myself in the history of the place. Like Petit Jean, this park is also a Trail of Tears National Historic Site, and I learned some history new to me about the water route taken by a portion of the indigenous people we forced from their homes. This was heavy material and sat with me when I made my way to the overlook of the Maumelle River.

neon blue-green water in the quarry pond with pine trees on the shores

From there, I stopped off at the Quarry Pond. Rock from Pinnacle Mountain, jackfork sandstone to be precise, was used in the 1940s and 1950s for buildings in Little Rock, and around “75,000 tons of rock was stripped from the base of the east side” of the mountain in 1957 when Lake Maumelle was constructed. Just behind the Visitor Center is the Quarry Pond, filled with trapped, sterile rain. The only life that can exist there is a blue-green algae, which gives the pond this amazing color.

As I hiked the Rocky Valley Trail, I kept coming back to this question: who decides what a mountain is? I thought back to my time living in Colorado Springs at the base of Pike’s Peak and how upon moving to Arkansas, I scoffed at the Ozark Mountains in northwest Arkansas as being merely hills. Having lived in the state now for 20+ years and being surrounded by images of the various named mountains, I’ve come a long way in understanding. I’ve also learned a lot about how people have subsisted in rugged terrain over the years, and the stubborn grit reminds me a lot of the farmers I grew up around. During my trip, I was fascinated to learn that the Ouachita Mountains, where Pinnacle is, were formed by two plates colliding and “crumpling.” I live in “the crumple zone” and you bet that made its way into the first draft!

Along the trail, I also came across this nurse log covered in resurrection fern. I take many, many pictures along my hikes, and the vast majority of them turn out to be pictures of rocks & boulders or trees, either standing or fallen. I am drawn to these natural landscapes in the same way I’m drawn to the black dirt of my childhood home.

Another question I’ve been asking myself about these poems I’m writing is how much of my own story should be included? It’s funny, when I wrote my first two books, I didn’t necessarily sit down and say, “I’m writing place-based poetry.” I was simply writing about my experiences and incorporating information about the land and the people that fascinated me. It was natural to do research on the geological formation of Iowa and the history of Euro-American settlement (on land originally home to centuries of indigenous people we nearly erased). It was natural to blend that information with my own personal story line. Now, though, as I’ve studied eco-poetry and place-based poetry, and I’ve set out a specific “project,” I’m more hesitant to include myself in the poems. This draft, however, does so, and what better metaphor for this new chapter of my life than a nurse log and resurrection ferns!

Next stop, Lake Fort Smith State Park.

Posted by Sandy Longhorn

Woolly Hollow (52 Parks: 52 Poems)

30 May 2023 (backdated)

Greenbrier, AR

84º sunny, calm, light breezes

Woolly Hollow State Park was number 2 on my list because it is super close to where I live and because a good friend had taken me kayaking there several years ago, so it felt familiar. My first stop was the Visitor Center to gather information and make a plan for my day. It was absolutely gorgeous outside and I couldn’t wait to see what the park had in store. This park is definitely a recreational hotspot as most of the RV camp sites were filled and there were dozens of people making use of the beach at Lake Bennet.

From the Visitor Center, I first drove down to the beachfront to scope out the area before the heat of the day arrived (when I planned to be under cover of the trees on the trails. At the beach, I quickly became enamored with the story of the lake’s formation as part of the Civilian Conservation Corp under the leadership of Dr. Hugh Hammond Bennett.

Lake Bennett from the beach looking out to the far shore, heavily treed, green reflection on smooth flat water

According to park signage, “The Lake Bennett Watershed was the first project in the United States built to scientifically study the effects of water run-off, silt, and erosion control from a specific watershed. The experiment included building the lake and erosion control structures… .” The lake was constructed in 1935 by a group of CCC men, and as I later hiked the park, I couldn’t shake the idea of what these men must have gone through to transform a then nearly barren landscape into the treasure it is today.

I did have to laugh at the note on one sign that read, “Bare backfill of the dam was planted with kudzu vine to keep soil in place. Kudzu’s invasiveness was not understood at the time.” That may be the understatement to beat all understatements.

a view of the dam from the side, showing the new backfill from 2018

Here is a view of the dam as it stands today. Of note, the original backfill was all washed away when the dam was overtopped during flooding in 2017. Regardless, the dam itself stood up to the damage, proving that the 1930s hand-built construction has stood the test of time. For those interested, here’s a great short video on the repairs. I guess the kudzu wasn’t mightier than the floods after all.

Leaving the beachfront, I spent most of my time at the park on the Huckleberry Nature Trail. I hiked about a mile of it from the campground trailhead and then doubled back, given time constraints not allowing me to complete the 3.5 mile loop. I knew I’d found a good trail, when the trailhead signage included a quote from Proust! “The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeing new landscapes but in having new eyes.”

I should note that when I’m on these trips I’m not hiking for exercise per se, meaning I meander more than hike. I stop and try to identify trees and plants, I scope out the area for any wildlife, and I spend a lot of time thinking. On the trail, I had the great fortune to learn some new wildflowers, thanks to the Seek app. There was woodland sunflower, firewheel (at the entrance in the sun), heart-shaped skullcap, and my favorite, clasping venus’s looking glass (a poem in the name itself). I also managed to scare up a prairie lizard. It ran for a tree trunk and perched there, letting me look my fill from over three feet away. I confess that if I hadn’t followed it with my eyes, I never would have seen it, its camouflage game was that strong.

Back down by the lake, near the artesian spring, for lunch, I managed two favorite bird sightings as well. A green heron coasted over and perched in a tree right in front of me, giving me a good show as it preened. Later, a blur of color hurled itself across the lake toward me. After it perched, I couldn’t get a good view, but it was calling up a storm. The Merlin app let me know it was a kingfisher, a bird I’ve never spotted and id’d before.

I ended my day by stopping at the dam trailhead for the Huckleberry Trail on my way out on the park road. That hike was a bit of a heart-thumper as the altitude change called on the quads and calves to do their work. The view of the dam still standing, stalwart in the sun, was worth it!

firewheel wildflower

Next stop, Pinnacle Mountain State Park

Posted by Sandy Longhorn

Petit Jean State Park (52 Parks:52 Poems)

16 May 2023 (backdated)

Morrilton, AR

mid-70s with partly cloudy skies and light breezes


For my 52 AR State Parks: 52 Poems project, I chose to visit Petit Jean State Park first because it is the reason the Arkansas State Parks system exists at all. After the area was turned down as a potential national park, Dr. T.W. Hardison, a country doctor who lived on the mountain, lobbied the Arkansas legislature to create a state park system and to designate Petit Jean as the first of its kind in the state. In 1923, with 80 acres around Cedar Falls, the park became a reality, growing through the years to its current 3,471 acres. Much of the park’s infrastructure was created by the Civilian Conservation Corp in the 1930s, and while most CCC camps were populated by men ages 18 – 25, Petit Jean’s Company V-1781 was made up of WWI veterans (the V in their company designation stands for veterans). As park signage notes, “Due to this mountain’s challenging terrain, the veterans’ experience was especially valuable.”

Visiting Petit Jean I went in with the barest idea of a plan on how to approach the fieldwork of immersing myself in the land and learning about its specific history and how that fit in with what I had already researched. I started at the Visitor Center, which has an impressive educational display, and talked with the staff there about potential hikes and what I shouldn’t miss. This proved quite fruitful and I’ve followed this approach since. At Petit Jean, I quickly realized I could write 52 poems about this park alone, and narrowing down my content will be difficult.

Over the course of my day, I started at the Cedar Falls overlook, as this is perhaps the most iconic image / place associated with the park. From there, I hiked down to Cedar Creek using part of the Winthrop P. Rockefeller Boy Scout Trail. Because I knew I wanted to see a bit of everything (and this is an immense place), I didn’t complete any one trail on this visit. 

After getting my fill of the creek views, I headed back to the car and over to the “turtle rocks” and Rock House Cave. Park signage has taught me that the turtle rocks are most likely the result of groundwater working its way through the natural dips and divots of the rocks, “causing oxidation of iron and other heavy minerals in the sandstone.” The rocks are reshaped and discolored by this weathering to produce boulders that look as if they are the backs of turtles. As with the waterfall, my amateur photographic skills do not do this landscape justice.

Pictured here is another of my “stunning” finds, or what I find stunning anyway (natural world nerd here!). This is elegant sunburst lichen growing on one of the turtle rocks. The bright, brilliant oranges, reds, and yellows of this tiny living organism pack a powerful visual punch, and so I find myself diving into research on lichen on my way to learning more about this place that I plan to write a poem both of and for

Just past the turtle rocks, I walked down to Rock House Cave, which isn’t a true cave, but is a natural bluff shelter. This beautiful stone retains pictographs made by indigenous peoples sometime in the last 2,000 years. After studying the park signage, I was thrilled when I was able to find and identify one pictograph, which is at the center of the stone pictured here. As yet, I haven’t been able to capture in words how it felt to be standing in front of a text written here so long ago–humbling doesn’t even begin to cover it.

My final stop of the day was at Stout’s Point and the site of Petit Jean’s Grave overlooking the Arkansas River. The legend of Petit Jean, a young French woman who disguised herself as a cabin boy in order to follow her lover into the New World (unbeknownst to him until the day she died on this mountain) is well known around here. I’m finding plenty to unpack from her story as well as the stories being told by the land, the plants, and the people I met during my day at Petit Jean. 

This park is the fourth largest, and I know I’ll need a return visit to see the Seven Hollows area as well as to spend more time hiking the trails around Cedar Creek. As my first official site visit, I came away overwhelmed with information and over 180 images, which are crucial to my process as they are powerful reminders. After struggling to draft the beginnings of a poem, I’ve settled on the idea of writing a long poem in parts, including Dr. Hardison & the CCC, Cedar Falls & the Cedar Creek trails, Rock House Cave & the turtle rocks, the legend of Petit Jean, and whatever I find when I visit Seven Hollows. This one is going to be a whopper, but as I think it will also introduce all the other poems, that seems fitting.

Next up: Woolly Hollow State Park!

Posted by Sandy Longhorn